Page 298 - Proceedings book
P. 298
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By the 16th century AD, textiles and salt were a major import in Sri Lanka. Soft
goods such as silk, brocade, satin, somana, velvet, and muslin were in high demand,
which was indicative of the high taste and growing requirement of luxurious goods on
the island. Dutch had monopoly in textiles by controlling the maritime regions of Sri
Lanka, which made a significant impact on local trade policies following their
conquest of the territory in 1665 AD (Roy & Riello, 2009). This led Sri Lankans to
rely on textiles imported by the Dutch, who provided based on local demand
(Arsarathnam, 1956). The Dutch East India Company played a significant role in
importing silk and textiles like Somana (chintz). These textiles formed part of Sri
Lanka's trade during the period between the 16th and 18th centuries, with Dutch
colonial business facilitating their importation (da Silva Cosme, 1990)
Textiles form an important role in elite attire for both men and women. Particularly
notable is the Somana textiles, which is described as being in an elongated shape of
12 cubits in length and 6 cubits in width, wrapped around the waist in a geometric
fashion. While serving a practical function, the design of the Somana also
demonstrates considered thoughtfulness, evident in the measured positioning of
design motifs along vertical, horizontal, and diagonal axes. The smooth surfaces of
the Somana provide an ideal ground for intricate and colored prints that contribute to
the garment's visual appeal. Printed Somana and shawls allow the wearer to convey
confidence and herald their social status. These textile designs, which are
characterized by beauty, intellectual stimulation, and inherent elegance, convey subtle
messages of cultural values.
Regarding the attire of commoners, Somana fabrics are characterized by simpler
designs and lower material quality. Unlike the ornate and high-quality Somana
(chintz) textiles worn by the upper classes, commoners' clothing made from Somana
features minimal decoration and is crafted from less durable and less expensive
materials. This distinction in textile quality and decorative complexity underscores the
social and economic differences between commoners and the elite in their clothing
choices.
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